Lyndon B. Johnson, Kenneth Gaddis, and Joseph M. Haggar Jr. on 9 August 1964


Transcript

Edited by Kent B. Germany, Guian A. McKee, and Marc J. Selverstone, with Kieran K. Matthews

In perhaps the most famous exchange captured on the Lyndon B. Johnson presidential recordings, the President provided explicit tailoring instructions to Joseph M. “Joe” Haggar Jr., of the Dallas-based Haggar Clothing Company, for new pairs of pants that he wanted delivered to the White House. As with many of Johnson’s calls, as well as those of the other presidents who taped their private conversations, this phone call opens a window onto the personal, human dimension of the presidency and those who inhabited the office.

Signal Corps Operator

Go ahead, sir.[note 1] The Presidential Recordings Program revised the following section of text in 2021 for inclusion in The LBJ Telephone Tapes, a project produced by the Miller Center in partnership with the Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library to commemorate the library's 50th anniversary.

President Johnson

Hello?

Joseph M. “Joe” Haggar Jr.

Hello?

President Johnson

Mr. Haggar?

Haggar

Yes, this is Joe Haggar.

President Johnson

Joe, is your father the one that makes clothes?

Haggar

Yes, sir. We’re all together.

President Johnson

Uh-huh. Y’all made me some real lightweight slacks that he just made up on his own, sent to me three or four months ago. It’s a kind of a light brown and a light green, rather soft green and soft brown.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

President Johnson

And they’re real lightweight. Now, I need about six pairs for summer wear.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

President Johnson

I want a couple, maybe three, of the light brown, kind of a[n] almost powder color, like a powder on a lady’s face.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

President Johnson

Then there were some green, and then maybe some other light pair. If you had a blue in that or a black, I’d have one blue and one black. I need about six pairs to wear around in the evening when I come in from work.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

President Johnson

And I need—they’re about a half a[n] inch too tight in the waist.

Haggar

Fine. Do you recall the exact size? I just wanted—I want to be sure we get them right for you.

President Johnson

No, I don’t know. Y’all just guessed at them, I think, and sent them. But wouldn’t you have the measurements there?

Haggar

We’ll find them for you.

President Johnson

I can send you a pair. I want them a half an inch larger in the waist than they were before, except I want two or three inches of stuff left back in there so I can take them up. I vary 10 or 15 pounds a month.

Haggar

All right, sir.

President Johnson

So leave me at least two and a half, three inches in the back where I can let them out or take them up, and put a—make these a half inch bigger in the waist. Make the pockets at least an inch longer. Money—my money and my knife and everything fall out. Wait just a minute.[note 2] End of 2021 revisions. [The President steps away from the phone.]

Unidentified Male

Would you hold on just a minute, please?

Haggar

Yes.

Haggar holds for approximately 1 minute and 38 seconds.
President Johnson

Hello?[note 3] The Presidential Recordings Program revised the following section of text in 2021 for inclusion in The LBJ Telephone Tapes, a project produced by the Miller Center in partnership with the Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library to commemorate the library's 50th anniversary.

Haggar

Hello.

President Johnson

Now, the pockets, when you sit down in a chair, the knife and your money comes out. So I need at least another inch in the pockets.

Haggar

[That’d] be fine.

President Johnson

Yeah. Now, another thing: the crotch, down where your nuts hang, is always a little too tight. So when you make them up, give me a[n] inch that I can let out there, because they cut me. They’re just like riding a wire fence. These are almost—these are the best that I’ve had anywhere in the United States.

Haggar

Fine.

President Johnson

But when I gain a little weight they cut me under there. So leave me . . . You never do have much margin there, but see if you can’t leave me about an inch from where the zipper [belches] ends around under my—back to my bunghole.

Haggar

All right, sir.

President Johnson

So I can let it out there if I need to.

Haggar

That’d be fine.

President Johnson

Now, be sure you got the best zippers in them. These are good that I have. And if you get those to me, I would sure be grateful.

Haggar

Where would you like them sent, please?

President Johnson

White House.

Haggar

Fine.

President Johnson

Now, I don’t guess there’s any chance of getting a very lightweight shirt, sport shirt, to go with that slack, is there? That same color?

Haggar

We don’t make them, but we can have them made up for you.

President Johnson

If you might look around, I wear about a 17.

Haggar

[Pause.] Do you like—

President Johnson

Extry long.[note 4] Here, President Johnson uses the colloquial pronounciation of “extra.”

Haggar

Do you like it in the same fabric?

President Johnson

Yeah, I sure would. I don’t know whether that’s too heavy for a shirt or not.

Haggar

I think it’d be too heavy for a shirt.

President Johnson

I sure want—I sure want the lightest I can in that same color or matching it. If you don’t mind, you figure out somebody up there that makes good shirts and get me one to match each one of them, and if they’re good, we’ll order some more.

Haggar

Fine.

President Johnson

I just sure will appreciate this. I need it more than anything and . . . Now . . . That’s about it. I guess I could get a jacket made out of that if I wanted to, couldn’t I?

Haggar

I don’t know. I think that—did Mr. James Haggar have a jacket made?[note 5] “James Haggar” might refer to James J. Haggar, a grandson of Haggar Clothing Company founder Joseph M. Haggar Sr.

President Johnson

Yeah, he sent me some jackets for some earlier, but they were way too short. They hit me up about halfway down my belly. I have a much longer waist. But I thought if they had material like that and somebody could make me a jacket, I’d send them a sample to copy from.

Haggar

Well, I’ll tell you what: if you will send us this, we’ll get it—we’ll find someone to make it.

President Johnson

OK.

Haggar

And we can supply the material to match it.

President Johnson

OK. I’ll do that. Now, how do I—you give this boy [Kenneth “Ken” Gaddis] the address, ʼcause I’m running for a funeral, and give him the address, just how to address these trousers.[note 6] Sgt. Kenneth “Ken” Gaddis was a valet to President Lyndon B. Johnson. Roughly 20 minutes after this phone call, President Johnson left his ranch by plane, bound for Austin, Texas, where he attended the funeral of Mrs. Bess R. Beeman. Beeman was the onetime chair of the Texas 10th Congressional District Women’s Division; a receptionist at city hall in Austin, Texas; and a longtime friend and supporter of Lyndon B. Johnson. So we’ll send them to you, and don’t you—you get the measurements out of them and add a half inch to the back, give us a[n] inch to the pockets, and about a[n] inch underneath so we can let them out.

Haggar

In other words, you like just a little more stride in the crotch.

President Johnson

Yeah, that’s right.

Haggar

We’ll take care of that.

President Johnson

I want you to build these at least a half inch more, and then leave me some in there.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

President Johnson

OK, here he is.

Haggar

Glad that you enjoyed the others.[note 7] End of 2021 revisions.

Kenneth “Ken” Gaddis

OK, go ahead, please.

Haggar

Hello.

Gaddis

Hello?

Haggar

Who is this, please?

Gaddis

This is Sergeant Gaddis.

Haggar

Pardon?

Gaddis

Ken Gaddis with—I need a address where we can mail these trousers down there.

Haggar

Fine. If you will send them to Joe Haggar . . . H-A-G-G-A-R.

Gaddis

Uh-huh.

Haggar

Haggar Company, 6113 Lemmon Avenue.[note 8] The Haggar offices were two blocks from Dallas’s Love Field, the airport from which Air Force One took off after John F. Kennedy’s assassination.

Gaddis

Sixty-one thirteen?

Haggar

Lemmon Avenue.

Gaddis

Lemmon?

Haggar

L-E-M-M-O-N.

Gaddis

Avenue.

Haggar

Avenue. Dallas, 9.

Gaddis

Dallas, 9.

Haggar

Yes.

Gaddis

OK.

Haggar

And this is Ken Gaddis? G-A-D-D-I-S?

Gaddis

That’s correct.

Haggar

Fine. Now, you’re going to send to me a pair of the trousers—

Gaddis

Right.

Haggar

—that we made before.

Gaddis

Right.

Haggar

He has told me what he wants done to them, and I assume everything else about them was OK.

Gaddis

Right. This is correct with just the exceptions that he gave you.

Haggar

Fine. We’ll take care of that. Now, is he going to—are you going to send a jacket?

Gaddis

Well, I don’t know that right now, but if we do, I’ll send it to the same address.

Haggar

Right. We’ll just have to find somebody that can make that. We don’t make the jackets, but we can get enough material to where they can be matched.

Gaddis

Uh-huh, fine.

Haggar

Good.

Gaddis

OK, sir.

Haggar

Fine. Let me ask one other question. He mentioned something about a size 17 shirt. Is he that big?

Gaddis

Well . . . not really, but he does prefer things to fit rather loosely.

Haggar

That’s an awfully big shirt.

Gaddis

Uh-huh.

Haggar

We want to try to get the shirts to match these slacks, and . . . you know what his sleeve length would be?

Gaddis

[haltingly] Well . . . I know on dress shirts he likes the . . . Let’s see. I think it’s—the left 33 and a half? And the right 34. [speaking aside] Yes, sir!

Haggar

OK—

Gaddis

[speaking to Haggar] Just a moment. [aside to President Johnson] Yes, sir?

Haggar does not hear Gaddis step away from the phone and continues speaking.
Haggar

That’ll be fine, and I’ll wait till you send these slacks to me, and we’ll make them up for him. . . . Hello? . . . Hello? . . . Hello? . . . Hello?

Gaddis

OK.

Haggar

I’ll wait till you send these slacks, and we’ll make them up for him.

Gaddis

OK, now, the President just told me that we are going to send the jacket also.

Haggar

Fine.

Gaddis

Now, when I do this, I will also send some shirt sizes, and so forth.

Haggar

Fine.

Gaddis

OK?

Haggar

Thank you very much.

Gaddis

OK, thank you.

Haggar

Yes, sir.

Gaddis

Bye.

Haggar

Bye.

Cite as

“Lyndon B. Johnson, Kenneth Gaddis, and Joseph M. Haggar Jr. on 9 August 1964,” Conversation WH6408-16-4851, Presidential Recordings Digital Edition [Election of 1964, vol. 1, ed. Kent B. Germany, Guian A. McKee, and Marc J. Selverstone] (Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 2014–). URL: http://prde.upress.virginia.edu/conversations/4006350